Since I've lived my entire life in California, my experience of the east coast is limited. As a result, one of my bike touring goals has been to ride the ACA's Atlantic Coast route. Recently, I discovered that Lambertville, NJ, where my in-laws live, is right on the route and would be a great place to stop or start a tour.
I decided to do this route after a trip to England with some friends fell through leaving me with no planned bike touring destination. After musing about it, I decided that it was time to turn my Atlantic Coast dreams into reality.
I had four possible tours. I could start in Lambertville and go north or south or I would end there coming from the north or south. Given that this tour would begin in early May, I figured it would be better to start in the south and go north to avoid any chance of dealing with snow and cold/hot weather.
I have about a month to fly out, do the ride and return. I don't have enough time to do the entire route so I have to pick a starting spot. I've heard that Charleston, SC is a nice place to visit but I've never been there (or in South Carolina, for that matter) and the distance seemed about right for the 3 weeks I am planning to ride.
I checked the ACA Atlantic Coast route and saw that it didn't go through Charleston but had a spur route from there to the main route. I wondered where else might make a good starting point. I started my search by asking John Egan what he thought. John (Jamawani at bikeforums.net) is a great source of bike touring information who helped me plan last year's route through Eastern Oregon and Idaho. As usual, he had some great advice.
I do think Savannah is much nicer than Charleston.
Savannah has lovely squares every two blocks - each unique.
And fabulous neighborhoods and riverfront.
But, yes, Charleston is more historic and touristy. Pricey, too.
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Be aware that many of the coastal highways have heavy traffic and dangerous bridges. Also, that the South isn't exactly the most cycling conscious region of the country.
I would recommend some inland sections rather than trying to take four-lane coastal highways which really don't have any ocean views, anyway.
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From Charleston -
The new Cooper River Bridge has a wide, separated bike lane with stunning views of the harbor. I would suggest back roads thru Francis Marion National Forest. SC DOT has a page with county maps. Georgetown is a lovely community - old, historic, and not overly touristy. The problem is getting in and out without getting on murderous highways. Avoid Myrtle Beach at all costs. Ugly, low-brow, strip development.
North Carolina has some incredible places which will be the highlights of your trip. If you have never been to the Outer Banks - you will be pleasantly surprised how exquisite they are - especially Ocracoke. You take a two-hour state ferry ride for something like $2. Best cruise bargain out there.
Ocracoke has camping at a NPS campsite and also hotels and B&B. The historic Island Inn has a lovely dining room and gives you the feeling of another, simpler era. The nice thing abour Ocracoke is that you can watch the sun rise over the Atlantic and the sun set over the sound. Everyone heads down to the waterfront for sunset.
From Ocracoke, you can take a private boat over to the ghost town of Portsmouth - either for the day or overnight if you wish. I would suggest riding up to the ferry dock and over to Cape Hatteras, but then returning to Ocracoke to take the ferry to Swan Quarter. There of the most amazing places in coastal North Carolina are slightly inland.
These are - Somerset Place, Edenton, and Merchant's Millpond.
Somerset Place is one of the finest plantation restorations - including slave quarters - and extremely remote - deep in the swamps. Also there is a lovely state park on Phelps Lake right next door. Edenton is a historical colonial town on the waterfront - much like Williamsburg without the millions of tourists. Merchant's Millpond State Park has rental canoes and boat-in campsites. You can canoe through giant moss-draped cypress trees - something you'll never experience on the west coast.
Another reason I suggest this is so that you miss Norfolk. I think that there is a shuttle across the Bay Bridge/Tunnel - but it varies - on again off again. Even if it is operating, you have to bike thru miles of urban streets.
I suggest taking back roads up thru Isle of Wight to the Scotland ferry across the James River and then getting on the Colonial Parkway to Williamsburg and Yorktown. The New York River bridge has wide shoulders. But other bridges heading north to Reedville are narrow - the Rappahannock River bridge is pretty long, too.
The advantage of Reedville is that there are passenger ferries across Chesapeake Bay here - either via Tangier Island or Smith Island. Both Islands have an old Chesapeake Bay culture and a noticeable high tider accent. No camping - lodging pretty expensive - but worth it because the day tourists are gone. Then ferries continue to Crisfield, Maryland. Camping available at both mainland locations.
From Crisfield there are great backroads on the Delmarva Peninsula. Some suggestions are Rehobeth and the west side of the Pocomoke River to Snow Hill - ultimately heading up to Millsboro, Delaware and Lewes where you can ferry across Delaware Bay to New Jersey.
After reading this, I posted a question about starting a bike tour in Charleston, Savannah, or somewhere elese on several forums I frequent. The clear choice was Charleston; so Charleston it is.
I bought my airline ticket last week and have started planning in earnest.
I called the Chesapeake Bridge Authority and was told that if I call in advance, they will drive me across the bridge in one of their trucks. I will be responsible for the $12 toll.
I checked out the ferry from Lewes to Cape May for crossing Delaware Bay and see that it is encouraged!
It seems like the pieces are beginning to fall into place!
I'll be adding comments to this article as I do further planning.
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