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Thoughts on routing choices: Southern Italy Riding down the Amalfi Coast was a wonderful experience that I would recommend. I rode west to east (Sorrento to Salerno), which means I was on the coastal side of the road. Riding from east to west (toward Sorrento) would put a rider on the mountain side of the road and I don't think the experience would be as grand. The two hours I spent touring Paestum was time well spent. The coastline between Sapri and Maratea was the highlight of the trip. It is undeveloped, lightly trafficked, and has marvelous vistas. Climbing over the hills behind Praia a Mare was challenging but worth it. However, this brought up the issue of how to get to the ferry port on Italy's toe. My choice to return to the western coast was not a good one as the road is narrow, full of cars and has uninteresting views. A better alternative might be to head south from Cosenza (or take the train from there) through the National Parks to the southern coast and the west to the ferries. This would likely add a day or two of riding but avoid the unpleasant riding on the western coast. That said, Tropea was worth visiting. Sicily Don't plan to spend much time in Messina. Taormina is a cute, touristy place that is expensive but worth a visit. While I was near Mt. Etna for a couple days, I only actually saw it once. I didn't ride up it, so can't comment on doing that. Siracusa was a happening place where there is enough to do and see to fill a rest day, though the historic sites aren't all that impressive. Noto and Modica are both World Heritage Sites. They are close enough that they both can be seen in one day. They are enough alike that seeing only one of them would be my recommendation. Don't spend any time in Gela. Do spend time in Agrigento. The archeological park is fabulous and the modern town is happening. This was the best "ruins" experience of the trip. Selinunte has both pretty coastal views and stunning ruins. Though it is a small place, it had food shops and plenty of (Italian) restaurants. If you are going to spend time in Palermo, do some research beforehand to identify churches you want to visit and other places to see. Drink Passito. Random observations of Southern Italy When taking taxis have small bills to pay the exact fare and expect to bargain. Even if fixed price fares are mandated, don't expect taxi drivers to accept the fixed price fare. In Italy, things look good but don't always work well. Don't take the ferry from Naples to Sorrento if you get seasick easily. Italians use "do" (fare) where English speakers use "take" (prendere). Thus, in Italy one "does" a shower, nap, or rest instead of "taking" them. Broccoli in Italy usually means Broccoli Rabe, a bitter, asparagus-like leafy stem that is not related to broccoli at all. Italian breakfasts are usually only espresso and a cornetto (sweet croissant). At hotels that supply breakfast, there is a much better choice of things to eat. Also, expect to be offered crackers instead of actual bread. Don't expect to find public toilets. Those you do find will have a fee to enter. In addition, don't expect public or restaurant toilets to have seats. Drivers are very courteous with bicyclists, though Southern Italian driver are inveterate horn honkers. Don't expect shoulders on highways. There is a great deal of garbage on the streets. Every day you will pass large piles of garbage bags, some of which will smell badly. Once past Sorrento, I heard very few people speaking English and virtually no one with an American accent. While the car drivers are generally courteous, the scooter drivers are dangerous. They make random cuts through traffic without regard for who is behind or next to them. I had to swerve several times to avoid being run-into. This is mostly a problem in larger towns and cities. Passing cyclists will offer a greeting to touring cyclists. Many towns in Sicily have cobblestone streets. The scent of citrus flowers is everywhere. In the right season, the wildflowers are amazing. Large supermarkets are rare. In any food store, the biscuit aisle is huge while the potato chip selection is tiny. Bakeries often sell bread with cheese melted on top (pizza without tomato sauce?), which I found to be good biking food. SS labeled roads carry fast car and truck traffic and should be avoided, if possible (which it isn't always). For the most part, paved roads are in good repair. Many local couchsurfers were men looking to host women. Even through I contacted many hosts in Palermo, not one of them offered me a place to stay. In fact, I didn't get hosted once in all of Sicily. In season, English peas are sold cheaply by street vendors. Italians don't eat such peas and will look at you a funny look if you do. Instead of buying an entire head, you can buy individual leaves of lettuce and stalks of celery at vegetable stalls. Restaurants are common but they almost always serve only Italian food. It is easy to take a train with a loaded touring bike, though the ticket for the bike is often as expensive as the one for the passenger. |
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