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Biking the Balkans and dawdling in the Dolomites
Day 7: Climbing to the coast, talking with Kruno,and over the top of Cres

Date Starting Place Ending Place Author Last Update

04-30-18 Labin,
Istria, Croatia
Cres,
Cres Island, Croatia
ray 07-30-18 13:22:52

 
I was ready to leave by 8am. I was aiming for the 11:15 ferry and knew there was some significant uphill between me and the ferry port, so I wanted to leave as much time as possible.

I hit the big Konzum grocery store for biking food on the way out of town. The highway was narrow and full of traffic, so I rode as much as I could on the sidewalk (after the bike path on the sidewalk ran out).

The further I got from Labin, the thinner the traffic.



After a few miles, I started getting some views down to the water and of a huge power plant on an inlet from the sea that turned a pretty sight into an odd one.



At a roundabout, I went toward Rijeka and the ferry port, but the traffic went elsewhere. The climb up to the top of the coastal hills started there in earnest. The road was lined with leafed out trees,



distant hills, and



more complete views of the power plant.



The hill town of Plomin provided the usual attractive profile.



At a vista point at the end of Plomin, I got this view down the inlet to islands in the far distance.



A bit further up the road, I got this vista down the Istrian coast.



After about 45 minutes of leisurely, very low traffic climbing, I got to the top of the coastal cliffs. There is a hotel, bar, and tourist bus stop where the road hits the top of the cliffs. The views of Cres (pronounced Tres) became compelling.



The road made a sharp left turn and I rode the flat 3 miles to the turn-off for the ferry. It was a steep, curvy road that made me wonder what the climb up the side of Cres would be like.



The views on the way down, even on an overcast day, were fabulous.



I got to the ferry about an hour early. My ticket was 36 Kuna or about $6, $3 for me, $3 for the bike. I talked with my wife while I waited. While I could see the ferry approach across the way, I was surprised at how big it was when it arrived.



The sailors didn't seem to care where I put my bike.



Just before the ferry arrived, another bike rider rode up. He was on a road bike and while we waited for the crossing to finish, we got to talking. Kruno



is a Croat biking all the way done to the end of Cres, where he was meeting his wife and daughter. We talked about biking, Croatia, and the US. Kruno mentioned that many young people have left Croatia for greener European pastures leaving fewer workers to support the retired. He said it was close to a 1:1 ratio. He also complained about the petty corruption that stifled growth. When I asked for examples, he cited the need to pay-off cops at traffic stops. I really enjoyed talking with him.

As the ferry pulled into Cres, I noticed the pretty, transparent blue water and the rocky shoreline.



Once on the other side (30 minutes), we said our good byes and I started up the well-maintained road. Looking back, I saw the mountains of the mainland.



I was really intrigued by the clear water and took many photos looking down. Here is the best one.



Since the ferry is the only way for cars to get onto the island, I was alone except for a 2 minute stretch when the cars from the next ferry zoomed by in one long caravan. I snaked up the island among trees



and fields of rocks.



The only bit of commerce I saw the entire way up and over the island was this roadside ad for an art gallery.



I climbed for over 2 hours, resting often. The views of the mainland, Cres, and other nearby islands from the summit were fabulous. This one is looking down the west coast of Cres.



This one is looking east over the village of Predoscica, toward the Croatian mainland.



As impressive as the photos are, they don't do justice to the views!

I crossed the 45th parallel



and got his panorama.



I didn't know it at the time, but I could see road to the ferry I would take the next day.

The downhill coast went by fast. I had a view of the town of Cres from a long way away.



There is a huge grocery store at the turn-off to the city. I checked out that it was open the next morning and then rode into town to find my room.
After cleaning up, I went out to walk around. Cres is a tiny place with a small harbor right off the main square, which is full of cafes and restaurants.



I walked across the town, along its shore and on my way back had a pizza before walking home stuffed. Once back home, I iPadded, checked my route and timing for the ferry the next day, and eventually want to bed.



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