In the 15 years that I've been touring seriously, I've taken more than 25 tours throughout the US, Europe, and New Zealand. I've ridden more than 16,000 miles in over 400 days.

Some days were hard, others were easy, all were enjoyable in their own way. But, some days are more joyful, meaningful, and/or memorable than the others. In looking back over a decade and a half of bicycle touring, I've selected 12 days that, to me, are the most memorable.

12 Is The New 10

Originally, I thought to create a "10 Best List" of my touring days. But, how was I to define "best?" Was it seeing the prettiest scenery, meeting the nicest people, experiencing inspiring history or being the most joyful? What's more, whatever my criteria, how was I to winnow down over 400 days on the road to just 10?

In the end, I decided trying to choose the "best" days of over 400 was simply too hard. Instead, I focused on experiences that generated the strongest memories. I searched for those times that have become a part of me. The ones that come to mind when a random comment sparks a memory.

After a long search through my journals, I selected 32 days that still feel fresh in my memory, no matter how long ago they occurred. But, I wanted to get it down to 10, so I put them into categories and slowly weeded out those that didn't quite measure up to the others. After deleting most of them, I could only get it down to 12. While I could randomly delete 2 of these to get down to the magic 10, I'd rather ignore the urge for "top 10" mania and go with what I think is right.

What Makes A Memory?

In essence, when I go on tour, I am looking for joy and satisfaction. I also want to visit interesting places, see pretty vistas, meet wonderful people, and experience foreign cultures. Some times these all come together to create a magical day gliding through the world at just the right speed to take it all in. On other days, one experience is so stunning that the memory never fades.

While I can't remember every mile I've ridden, I can recollect even small details when I read over my daily journal entries. But, some moments were so powerful that they have become part of my memory's fabric and often "pop up" when I hear a place name or see something. These are the days I've chosen.

My 12 Most Memorable Days On Tour

These days are not in any particular order.

The Pragel Pass

I asked the father of one of my hosts in Switzerland, an avid bicyclist, about riding over the Pragel Pass. He shrugged and said "no problem, maybe you have to walk a little." With this ringing endorsement, I routed myself over the pass.

Three things make this day memorable. One was the Klontaler See,

an impossibly beautiful turquoise alpine lake. Two was the climb up and over the Pragel Pass, 1,000 meters of climbing in 20 kilometers of riding; that's a 5% grade for 12 miles! Last, was the time I spent with "Thomas," my host of the previous night.

While the advice of walking was apt, it wasn't useful. When I tried to walk, the grade was so steep that the cleats on my biking shoes prevented me from getting the traction I need to push me and the bike up the road. In the end, I had to ride the entire way. Up near the top, where it always gets steeper, I was suddenly lightheaded with a pounding heart. I thought I might be having a heart attack. I pulled over to rest and consider my situation. When I realized I'd climbed over 3,000 feet up, I thought maybe the thinner air might be the cause and after a few minutes got back on the bike and over the pass.

I'd also had a particularly memorable evening and morning with my host, who I call, "Thomas." He was from India, had married a Swiss woman, and when their newborn infant died had gotten confused and moved out. He now had a German mistress and didn't know what to do going forward. Our interaction was intense, personal, thoroughly enjoyable, and punctuated with demanding phone calls from the mistress. When I left Thomas the next morning, I was torn as I'd made a new friend who I'd likely never see again. I've always wondered how it turned out.

Here is my journal entry for that day.

The Big Sur Coast

I've lived in California my whole life. I've driven and hitchhiked on Highway One between San Francisco and Los Angeles many times. As such, it makes sense that the first real bike tour I took was on this famous route.

In fact, I've done this ride half a dozen times over the years. Without question, the best section of the entire ride is the 23 miles from the end of Carmel to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park.

The last time I rode this bit of Highway One, in 2009, I was peddling along without traffic when I heard a bird call out and I immediately knew what was being said. It was a moment of connection with nature that I'll never forget. I used this experience as the introduction to a presentation I was writing.

Here is my journal entry for that day.

Cranking the Kanc

Not all memorable days are rides in clear, sunny, windless weather. This one was in rain thick enough to obscure, what I'm told, is a fabulous view. What made this day memorable was riding over the venerable Kancamagus Pass, locally known as Cranking the Kanc.

Two strong memories I have of this ride involve the rain.

First, I was near the top in the covered gazebo of a viewpoint whose vista was totally obscured by clouds. A man and his wife pulled up and after a bit of small talk showed me photos of the view I would be seeing if it wasn't raining.

Second, On the way down, after I thought I'd left the rain behind, the skies opened up with rain so heavy I barely keep control of my bike. With no shelter, I simply stood by the side of the road getting soaked, wondering what it is about such moments that I seek out. After the downpour finished, my last rain of the day, I stopped at pull-out, stripped off all my biking clothes, and changed into dry ones.

Besides the basic discomfort of the rain, the ride was through beautiful approaching fall colors and the pretty White Mountains. As an odd finish to the day, I was hosted by the mother of one of the founders of Couchsurfing!

Here is my journal entry for that day.

D-Day Beaches

For an American, the drama of the Allied Landings on the coast of France is hard to avoid. The landings have been made into movies, TV shows, documentaries, umpteen books and more. Frankly, it is a compelling story of a daring invasion.

One goal for a ride across France I did in 2008 was to visit these famous beaches in France, the coastal area just south of Caen in Normandy. My original plan was to overnight in Caen and then ride along the coast, soaking in the history as much as I could.

My couchsurfing host in Caen was Antoine, a twenty-something local who fancied himself a professional gambler and actor. To save me a day of biking, he volunteered to drive me to the beaches.

I wanted to go first thing in the morning. But, Antoine said we should enjoy the morning before rushing off. We walked into town, met several of his friends (from one, I discovered his interest in acting), hit a farmer's market for food, and made a tasty lunch we ate on his little balcony.

We spent the afternoon visiting the beaches, which are a stark reminder of the tools and cost of war.

While walking in the footsteps of invading soldiers my father's age, seeing what they were up against, and trying to imagine myself in the maelstrom was both meaningful and unforgettable, it was the time I spent with Antoine that is what I remember most. The combination of the two make this one of my fondest biking memories.

Here is my journal entry for that day.

Going To The Sun Road

I read about the splendor of Going to the Sun Road long before I rode it. It is the highway that runs over Logan Pass in Montana's Glacier National Park. Due to massive flooding in Alberta, Canada during my tour, I only rode it in one direction, east to west.

I managed to find a host in the tiny village of St. Mary just outside the park's eastern boundary. I started this ride shortly after sunrise and had the road to myself for many miles.

This ride has it all: stunning mountains, long lakes, glaciers, waterfalls, animals, and wow-inspiring broad valley vistas.

It also sports a steady grade that, while a challenge to climb, allows for a steady rhythm to ease the effort a bit.

There are travel restrictions that prevent bike riders from coasting down the road on the west side of Logan Pass in the middle of the day. A common diversion is hiking along the Highline Trail that runs north from the Logan Pass visitor's center. I walked with 3 bike tourists I met there for several miles with panoramic views of mountains, valleys, lakes, and waterfalls. We also mingled with mountain goats, including this cute baby.

The high-speed coast down the road was exhilarating and provided the opportunity for me to pass a line of cars slowly negotiating the many curves. The day was so full of joy that I didn't even mind sleeping on the ground that night!

Here is my journal entry for that day.

The Gorges du Tarn

With mountains on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other, France has several major rivers and innumerable creeks and streams. Some of this moving water has carved gorges through the landscape. I rode up the gorges of the Dordogne and Lot rivers, which I enjoyed. But, the highlight was my ride through the Tarn River Gorge (or Gorges du Tarn). The steep sided gorge is topped by exposed red rock, has trees growing everywhere and on every flat surface, and contains the picturesque village of La Malene.

The Gorges du Tarn is a tourist attraction and the narrow, 2-lane road can be crowded with cars and tour buses. But, my timing on this day was good. I arrived at Ste. Enimie, at the top of the Gorge, about 3pm. While I was tempted to spend the night in the pretty town, I decided to push on through the gorge.

Being later in the afternoon, all the tourists were gone and I had the road entirely to myself. The 30 mile downhill ride was just me, the river, cliffs, and trees. It was almost too much to absorb. When I think of my ride through France, what I remember is the joy I felt in the Gorges du Tarn.

Here is journal entry for that day.

The Icefield Parkway

Some days have it all and then some. The ride I did on the Icefields Parkway from the Mosquito Creek Hostel to Rampart Creek Hostel is one such day. I rode past milky blue lakes under soaring mountain peaks draped with blue-tinged glaciers dripping with waterfalls. There was so much nature that is wasn't possible to assimilate it all.

The riding wasn't particularly hard, in fact, more down than up and less than 40 miles. But the joy I felt moving through such stunning natural beauty is why I travel by bicycle.

While the bike ride was extraordinary, what makes this day particularly memorable was my experience once I arrived at Rampart Creek hostel for the night. There, I met Ken, the host, and we spent hours talking about all kinds of topics, personal and philosophic. As a final treat, I spent about an hour in the wood-fired sauna there, alternating pouring heated and ice cold water over myself. It not only cleaned my body, but it cleansed my soul.

Here is my journal entry for that day.

Riding With Flowers

Most of the time I am riding on tour is spent looking in front of and around my bike's front wheel. So, while grand vistas are always wonderful, it is the stuff by the side of the road that mostly consumes my attention. I am always excited to tour through areas when wildflowers are in bloom.

Most of my tours have been in the late Spring, when wildflowers are usually at their peak. I love looking around and seeing dots of yellow, white, red and blue as I pedal past a field. As a result, abundant wildflowers isn't what made this day special. What made this particular day memorable is 1) the sheer amount of flowers and 2) their complete surprise.

It was near the end of my ride around the island of Sicily. Rain had been predicted for the day and the sky looked like it would open up any minute. I was headed inland over the hills and I wasn't expecting grand views or a particularly interesting ride.

As I was riding through the farm fields that make up most of middle Sicily, I passed a field of my favorite wildflower, the red poppy.

A while later, I found myself undulating through entire hillsides of pink.

It was the first time I experienced transcendent joy simply by riding through wildflowers. At the time, I thought of it as traveling through a huge florist's shop!

Here is my journal entry for that day.

Mountain Lakes of Northern Italy

Northern Italy is a place of beauty. It is full of lakes, mountains, rocky creeks, waterfalls, and wonderful food. But, sometimes, it is a cup of hot chocolate that completes the picture.

I started a long route of two 1,000 foot climbs at Lago de Ledro in the cold. After a few miles of gentle climb, a 6 mile downhill had my teeth chattering, even after putting on all the clothes I had on the bike. It may have been the coldest I've ever been on tour!

Just above the town of Storo, I passed a beautiful waterfall just off the road. I stood there watching it, taking photos, and trying to warm my hands.

I found an open cafe (it was Sunday) and needed some time to warm up before I continued. I asked for "very" hot chocolate and was brought a thick, hot drink that I had to sip from a spoon. It not only warmed me up, but has become stuck in my mind as the best cup of hot chocolate I've ever had!

After Storo, I rode the length of pretty Lago d'Idro on a deserted highway, over both passes, and ended the day on the banks of Lago d'Iseo, which contains the largest island lake in Europe.

In addition to the hot chocolate, another strong, though not good, memory of this ride was the loud, under-powered motorcycles that screamed past me on the curvy mountain roads all day. Now, every time I hear a motorcycle in the distance, I am transported back to Northern Italy.

Here is my journal entry for that day.

The Sawtooth Mountains

Spending all day riding on one of Idaho's scenic byways is a wonderful experience. The Ponderosa Pine Scenic Byway runs from Boise, ID to Stanley, ID over Banner Pass. The route goes through the fabulous Boise National Forest.

I started my day in Crouch, ID, a cute tiny town right on the Payette River. I rode along the river as its wide canyon narrowed and then disappeared entirely.

Shortly after the Payette River turned and went up the mountain, I got my first glimpse of the Sawtooth Mountains.

I wouldn't see them again until I was well over Banner Pass, 10 miles away.

I had planned to camp at one of the several campgrounds just past Banner Pass. But, the mosquitoes were so thick that I decided to push on to Stanley and a room for the night. This added another 20 miles to an already long day and I pulled into Stanley as night fell. In the end, there were no available rooms in Stanley that night and I ended up camping in an overflow camping area that closely resembled a parking lot.

What made this day memorable was the climb up Banner Pass among the wildflowers of Canyon Creek and

stunning views of the "close enough to touch" Sawtooth Mountains.

I also have clear memories of that parking lot campground, but not very good ones!

Here is my journal entry for that day.

The Amalfi Coast

The Italian coastline between Sorrento and Salerno, known as the Amalfi Coast, is world famous. And, for good reason. It's vistas have been the backdrop to movies, on uncountable postcards, and are truly fabulous.

I took a bus tour along it in a rain storm many years ago. Since I started bike touring, I've thought it would make a great bike ride.

I finally got the chance in 2016. Having been there, I was aware that the narrow, two-lane road was curvy with steep drops. But, whenever I mentioned my intention to ride down the Amalfi Coast, everyone (and I do mean everyone) told me I was "crazy," the road was "dangerous," and I was "taking my life in my hands." In fact, I had heard this so much, that as I crested the pass and headed down the coastal road, I wondered if I'd finish the day alive.

Of course, all this worry was unnecessary. Not only is there plenty of room on the road for a bicycle, but it is cars and, especially, buses that have to be careful. When traffic came up behind me, I simply pulled over, let the bus-blocked line of cars pass, and then had the road to myself. It was great place to ride a bike!

While the coastal views are fabulous, what makes this ride memorable is the smells and the sounds that are unavailable to someone in a bus or car. For much of the ride, the air was filled with the smell of wisteria, pink jasmine, and lemon blossoms, one of my favorite scents! During the time I was alone on the road, I was constantly serenaded by birds.

Now, anytime I hear someone talking about the Amalfi Coast, I don't think about vistas. I remember the smell of lemon flowers!

Here is my journal entry for that day.

Down the Rivers and Through The Tirol

I greatly enjoy riding beside and across small rivers. I have no appreciation for huge, opaque, Danube-sized rivers. Instead, I want to ride along moving streams of clear water, burbling over rocks, through trees.

Often, a ride along a pretty river is enough to cement the memory of day spent on tour. The most memorable day spent riding along rivers was the when I rode from St. Johann in Tirol to Berchtesgaden. Not only did I spent virtually the entire ride next to a river, I rode along three of them!

What makes this day even more memorable is that each of the three rivers were different colors. The Lofenbach River was silvery water surrounded by golden rocks.

A couple hours later, the emerald green Schwarzbach River was my companion for awhile.

At the end of the day, I followed the milky blue Ramsauer Ache into Berchtesgaden.

In addition to this rainbow of rivers, I rode by majestic, snow-topped mountains, mossy forests, and wide valleys. I said "wow" more times on that day then another in my life! For that, I will never forget it!

Here is journal entry for that day.

Thanks For The Memories

These 12 days are not the only ones that spark detailed recollections. When I read through my tour journals, there are moments from each and every day that I can vividly recall. In fact, this is the main reason I take the time to write my journals; so I can enjoy them all over again!

But, the above days are ones that enriched my life beyond just vivid memories. They are the ones that have provided life highlights and that make all the effort to plan, train for, and ride the tours all the more worthwhile.

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